PAMIR-Expedition 1988            (short description)
 

members:
Rainer Bauch, Altenburg (GDR), civil engineer
Edgar Nönnig, Thonhausen/ Schmölln (GDR), dipl. mathematician
Elisabeth Stempel, Altenburg (GDR), doctor med.
Klaus Müller, Königshain/ Mittweida (GDR), physician
Axel Franke, Leipzig (GDR), student

date:
1988 July, August

area:
former Soviet Union, republic Tadshikistan, central Pamir, chain Peter I

expedition weight:
230 kg (46 kg per member)
 
 
View of the upper Schini Bini glacier to the summit of the Pik Radianow. Our ascent route (north way) of the rear Schini Bini glacier to the summit of the Pik Radianow.

 

travel route:
1. Berlin - Moscow - Dushanbe (Tadshikistan): plane
2. Dushanbe - Obigarm: bus
3. Obigarm - Mionadu on the river Obichingou: trailor
4. to mount village Roga: jeep
5. to startpoint of trekking tour Pashimgar; (today dead village), transport by donkey (each of the 3 donkeys carried 75 kg)

trekking:
1. Pashimgar (8727 ft.)
2. river Kirgis Ob
3. glacier Davlachan
4. northern pass Sugran (14.150 ft.)
5. glacier Sugran
6. glacier Schini-Bini, on it base camp (15.759 ft.)

[duration 15 days, 1 day pause enclosed]
 

climbing:
August 5: building up a base camp
August 6 and 7: climbing onto the 20.768 ft. high Pik Radianow with all members of the team

route:
north side, with one additional camp (high camp) on the height of 17.388 ft.
through an ice couloir (17.400 ft. - 18.700 ft.), building up of one secure trasse with a fixed rope
firn slope to 20.000 ft. high and wide saddle
on the north east ridge to the top
descent on the same way

base camp - high camp: 2.620 ft. in 7,5 hours
high camp - top:  2.400 ft. in 7 hours; descend in 3 hours
descend to base camp: 2.620 ft. in 2,5 hours
graduation: 4 A/B in the 6 grated soviet scale

August 9: climbing on the top of the Peak „Birs“, 18.442 ft.
graduation: 2B/ 3A

remark:
Following a notice page, found on the top. We could read, that this mount was first climbed by a Georgian alpin group, leader Dangadse, 1976 july, 29, but on another route, an overcrossing. Therefore our group could be the second climber generally and the first climber on the north route.
 
 
Our high camp in the north flank of the Pik Radianow (circa 5.400 m). On the summit of the Pik Radianow (6.330 m). In the photo from above:
Edgar Nönnig, Axel Franke, Elisabeth Stempel and Rainer Bauch.

 

trekking back:
1. glacier Shini-Bini
2. glacier Sugran to bridge 8.793 ft.
3. pass Bel Kandou (10.830 ft.)
4. mountain village Muk at river Muksu
 

travel back:
1. Muk - Dombratchi - Ljachsch: truck
2. Ljachsch - Dushanbe: plane (AN 2)
3. Moscow - (East) Berlin-Schönefeld: plane
                                                                                                                                                    return